How to Build a Chain Link Fence: Step-by-Step for DIYers

Chain link fencing is a popular choice for gardens and larger plots because it is durable, relatively affordable and needs little maintenance. Whether you want to secure a boundary, keep a dog in the garden or mark a line without blocking the view, a chain link fence does the job without fuss. In the UK the mesh is often sold as chainwire or chain-link mesh, usually in rolls with a matching kit of posts, rails and fittings.

It can look like an industrial task, but with the right tools and a methodical approach it is a manageable DIY project. This guide walks you through the process from planning to the final tensioning of the mesh. Always read the instructions that come with your kit as well: post sizes, spacings and fittings vary between makers, and theirs take priority over any general guide.

1. Preparation

Preparation is the most important phase. In brief:

• Boundary: confirm exactly where your boundary runs before you buy anything. Check your deeds and talk to your neighbour; in the US, a property survey will mark your pins. Guesswork can lead to disputes or having to move the fence later.
• Height: in England a fence is generally permitted development if it is no more than 2 m (6 ft 7 in) high, or 1 m (3 ft 3 in) next to a highway used by vehicles. Listed buildings, conservation areas and properties with planning conditions may differ. In the US, height limits and permit rules vary by town and HOA, so check with your local building department.
• Buried services: in the US, call 811 a few days before you dig so the utility companies can mark their lines. In the UK, ask the utility companies for plans of their apparatus and scan the line with a cable avoidance tool, then dig carefully by hand near any marked route.

Our guide to privacy fence mistakes covers boundaries, planning rules and buried services in more detail.

Then gather your materials: terminal posts (corner, end and gate posts), line posts (the lighter intermediate posts), top rails, the chain-link mesh, and fittings such as tension bands, brace bands, tension bars, rail end cups, post caps, loop caps and ties. Tools typically include a tape measure, pegs and string line, a post-hole digger or hired auger, a digging bar, a spirit level, a spanner or socket set, pliers, a hacksaw or pipe cutter and a fence stretcher. Wear gloves, eye protection and sturdy footwear throughout.

2. Layout

An accurate layout gives a straight, professional-looking fence. Start by locating your terminal posts, the anchors of the system: corner posts, end posts and gate posts. Drive pegs at these points and stretch a string line tightly between them. The string marks the outside face of your posts.

With the string taut, mark the line post positions with a tape measure. Line post spacing is commonly up to about 3 m (10 ft), closer (around 2.4 m / 8 ft) in exposed spots, but follow the kit maker's spacing. Mark each spot with spray paint or a small peg. Allow for the gate: the opening between gate posts must match the gate maker's specification for the gate and its hardware.

3. Post holes

The fence is only as stable as its posts. Terminal posts take the pull of the tensioned mesh, so their holes are wider and deeper than those for line posts. Sizes depend on your post diameter, fence height, soil and local frost depth; for example, a supplier might specify terminal post holes noticeably wider and deeper than line post holes for a garden-height fence. Use the hole sizes given in your kit instructions.

In cold areas, set the base below the depth where the ground freezes to reduce frost heave, where freezing and thawing soil gradually lifts posts out of the ground; your local building department or supplier can advise on frost depth. For many holes or heavy clay, a hired power auger saves effort; follow the hire company's safety guidance, as augers can kick or twist suddenly when they hit a root or stone. For smaller jobs, a post-hole digger and a digging bar for stony ground will do.

4. Terminal posts

Set the terminal posts first. Stand the post in the centre of the hole and fill around it with concrete or postcrete, mixed and used exactly as the bag instructions say. Check with a level as you go so the post is plumb on two adjacent sides.

Terminal posts are usually set a little above the height of the mesh, as your kit instructions specify. As a worked example, with 1.2 m (4 ft) mesh the terminal posts might sit about 5 cm (2 in) higher, so around 1.25 m (4 ft 2 in) above ground. Crown the top of the concrete so it slopes away from the post and sheds water. Let it cure for the time the bag specifies before applying any tension.

5. Line posts

Once the terminal posts are set, stretch a string line between their tops, a little below the top as your kit instructions suggest, to act as a height and alignment guide for the line posts.

Line posts are usually set slightly lower than the terminal posts because the top rail runs over them through loop caps. Follow the string line and the kit instructions for the exact height. Fill around each post with concrete, check it is plumb and centred in the hole, and make sure it just touches the string without pushing it out of line.

6. Fittings

When the concrete has cured, fit the hardware. On each terminal post, slide on the tension bands and brace bands. Use as many tension bands as the kit specifies (more for taller fences); they hold the vertical tension bars that secure the ends of the mesh.

Next, fit the terminal post caps and the rail end cups that hold the top rail. On the line posts, fit loop caps, which have an opening for the top rail to pass through. Check every fitting faces the right way, and tighten the bolts only loosely at this stage so you can adjust later.

7. Top rails

The top rail gives the fence its lateral strength and stops the mesh from sagging. Start at one terminal post and slide the rail through the loop caps on the line posts. Top rails usually have one end swaged (narrowed) so it slots into the next length.

If a rail is too long, cut it with a hacksaw or pipe cutter and deburr the end. Seat the rail ends in the rail end cups on the terminal posts, then tighten the bolts once the full run is in place. The rail should form one continuous, firm line from end to end.

8. Hanging the mesh

Unroll the mesh on the ground along the outside of the fence line; standing it up is easier with two people. Slide a tension bar through the end row of diamonds and bolt it to the tension bands on your first terminal post.

Walk the roll along the fence, leaning the mesh against the top rail, and hold it in place with a few temporary ties as you go. To join two rolls, remove a single strand of wire from the end of one roll and weave it back through the ends of both rolls, following the kit instructions, until they are joined.

9. Tensioning

Good tension is what makes a chain link fence look neat and work properly. Fit a fence stretcher, or a ratchet puller with a stretcher bar, between the free end of the mesh and the far terminal post. Wear gloves and eye protection: mesh and wire under tension can spring back if a fitting slips.

Tighten slowly and evenly until the mesh is taut. A common check is to squeeze a diamond in the middle of a run: it should have only a little give. Do not over-tension, as that can distort the diamonds or pull the terminal posts out of plumb. Once it is right, slide a tension bar through the mesh at the end, trim any surplus mesh, bolt the bar to the tension bands and release the stretcher.

10. Finishing ties

With the mesh under tension, tie it to the top rail and each line post using the ties supplied with the kit, spaced as the kit instructions say. Twist the ends tightly with pliers and point the cut ends inward, away from the outside face, so they do not snag clothes or skin.

If you have a dog that might push or dig under the fence, add a bottom tension wire: run it along the bottom of the mesh between the terminal posts, pull it tight and tie the mesh to it. Finally, go round and check every bolt and fitting is tightened as the kit instructions specify.

Tip: Check the tension and ties after the first few weeks and again after strong winds. Mesh can settle slightly once it has been in place for a while, and a quick re-tighten keeps the line neat.

FAQ

How deep should I dig the post holes?

It depends on the post size, fence height, soil and local frost depth, so use the hole sizes in your kit instructions. Terminal posts need wider, deeper holes than line posts because they take the pull of the mesh. In cold areas, the concrete base should sit below the depth where the ground freezes.

Do I need planning permission or a permit?

In England, a fence up to 2 m (6 ft 7 in) high, or 1 m (3 ft 3 in) next to a highway used by vehicles, is generally permitted development, but listed buildings, conservation areas and planning conditions can change that. In the US, rules on permits and heights vary by town and HOA. Always check with your local planning or building department before you start.

Can I install a chain link fence on a slope?

Yes. Chain-link mesh is flexible enough to follow gentle slopes. You can rack the mesh, stretching it at an angle to follow the ground so the gap underneath stays fairly even. On steeper or uneven ground, ask your supplier about stepping the fence or using taller mesh.

What is the difference between knuckled and twisted selvage?

Selvage is how the wire ends are finished at the top and bottom of the mesh. Knuckled selvage is bent back into a smooth loop, which is safer for homes, gardens, children and pets. Twisted or barbed selvage leaves sharp points and is used for security fencing; it is not suitable for gardens.

Final thoughts

A chain link fence rewards careful groundwork: a confirmed boundary, terminal posts set plumb in well-cured concrete, a continuous top rail and mesh tensioned firmly but not too hard. Get those right and the rest is straightforward. If you are still deciding on materials, read our chain link fence pros and cons, and for ways to make it look good in a compact garden, see chain link fence small yard ideas. Prefer timber? Our guide on how to build a wood fence covers that route. For help designing the garden around your new fence, explore our balcony and terrace decoration service or book a consultation.