How Much Does Deck Skirting Cost? What Drives the Price

A deck is more than an outdoor platform: it extends your living space and shapes how the back of the house looks. The space underneath, though, often shows bare posts and joists, bare soil or a jumble of stored garden tools, and that can let the whole scheme down. This is where deck skirting comes in.

Skirting does three jobs: it improves the look, protects the space beneath the deck and helps keep animals out. It can even create hidden storage. For most homeowners, though, the decision comes down to budget. Prices vary widely by region, supplier and year, so rather than quote figures that will soon be out of date, this guide explains what makes one skirting job cost more than another, so you can choose sensibly and read quotes with confidence.

1. Wood

Timber is still the most popular skirting material because it is versatile and looks natural next to a timber deck. The species you choose makes the biggest difference to the price:

• Pressure-treated softwood is usually the cheapest timber. It is treated to resist rot and insects, and boards rated for ground contact are the sensible choice near the soil.
• Cedar and redwood cost noticeably more. Their natural oils help them resist decay, and they have a warmer, richer colour.
• Dense hardwoods such as ipe sit at the top of the range. They are extremely hard-wearing, but the timber costs considerably more and is slower to cut and fix, which adds labour. Check that it comes from a certified, responsibly managed source.

Remember the running costs too. Timber skirting needs cleaning and re-staining or sealing from time to time, so budget for that time or for a professional to do it.

2. Lattice

Lattice is the classic deck skirting and generally the most budget-friendly option. It is light, quick to fit and its open pattern lets air move freely under the deck.

Timber lattice panels are the cheapest to buy and give a traditional garden look, but thin slats can warp, split or crack as they take on and lose moisture. Vinyl lattice costs a little more, needs almost no maintenance and will not rot or need painting. Thicker, heavier-gauge vinyl panels cost more than thin ones but feel sturdier and last better. Vinyl comes in several colours, including white, tan and dark brown, so it is easy to match to existing railings. Whichever you choose, a simple timber frame around the panels adds a little to the cost and makes the result look far more finished.

3. Composite fascia

If your deck boards are composite, matching composite skirting gives a seamless, high-end look. It is usually fitted as fascia boards or as boards fixed horizontally to a timber frame behind.

Composite is among the more expensive skirting materials, mainly because of the material itself, a blend of wood fibres and plastics engineered to resist weather. Fixing it also takes care: like composite deck boards, it needs room to expand and contract, so follow the manufacturer's installation guide. Against the higher starting cost, composite needs no staining or painting, only occasional cleaning, which narrows the gap with timber over the years.

4. Stone and faux stone

Stone or brick skirting makes a deck look like part of the house's foundations rather than an add-on. It is the look many people want, and also the most expensive one.

• Real stone or brickwork is usually the costliest route of all. It is heavy, needs a proper footing and is skilled, slow work for a mason or bricklayer.
• Stone veneer (thin slices of real or manufactured stone) is lighter, but still needs a solid backing, a suitable adhesive or mortar and careful installation.
• Faux stone panels, usually made from high-density polyurethane or lightweight concrete, mimic stacked stone at a lower cost and are much quicker to fit.

Any heavier facing needs a sturdy framing or backing system to carry it, which adds to the bill. Because stone forms a solid face, you will also need to plan vents (see below).

5. Metal

Metal skirting suits modern and industrial designs, and contrasts well with a timber deck. Corrugated galvanised steel or aluminium sheet is often surprisingly affordable, durable and low-maintenance. Perforated or laser-cut aluminium panels cost noticeably more but look more refined and have ventilation built in.

Cut metal edges can be sharp, so safety should be part of the budget. Fit the sheets into a U-channel or a timber frame so no raw edges are exposed, wear gloves when cutting and handling, and file down or cover any edges within reach of children and pets.

6. Height and area

Height is often the biggest single driver of total cost, and the one people overlook. Skirting is often priced by the length of the run, but that assumes a low deck. If your deck sits 1.8–2.4 m (6–8 ft) off the ground, you need two or three times as much material as for a deck around 60–90 cm (2–3 ft) high.

For example, a 6 m (20 ft) run of lattice on a low deck might take a few panels, while the same run on a raised deck could take twice or three times as many to cover the extra height. Taller skirting also needs more internal framing, such as extra rails and noggins, so the panels do not bow or rattle in the wind.

To estimate your quantities, measure the area to be covered, not just the length. Measure the height from the ground to the underside of the deck at several points along each side, since few gardens are perfectly level, then multiply the average height by the length of each run and add the sides together. That figure in square metres (or square feet) is what suppliers and builders need.

7. Labour

If you hire a professional, labour is a large part of the cost and can match or exceed the materials. How much depends on the design and how easy the site is to work on:

• Fitting framed lattice panels is a quick job for an experienced installer, so labour stays at the lower end.
• Stone veneer, custom-cut hardwood slats or decorative metal panels need precise cutting, specialist tools and more time, so they can roughly double the labour of a simple panel job.
• Awkward access, such as a cramped space under the deck, a steep slope or tight side passages, takes longer and usually costs more.

DIY can save a lot on a simple job, but you need a good grasp of framing and of how to keep moisture away from timber.

8. Ventilation

One of the most common skirting mistakes is closing in the space beneath the deck without enough airflow. Shaded, damp air under a deck encourages mould and rot, and sealing it in with solid boards or stone can damage the joists and beams over time.

Ventilation is a necessary cost, not an optional extra. Lattice, slatted boards with small gaps and perforated metal all have airflow built in. Solid skirting, such as stone, composite fascia or close-fitting boards, needs vent panels or grilles, and good-looking vents add noticeably to a job if you need several. How much ventilation you need depends on the deck, the site and your local rules, so follow your local building regulations and the decking and skirting manufacturers' guidance. Skimping here may save a little now and cost far more in repairs later.

9. Access doors

Most people want to reach the space under the deck, whether for storage, to check the frame or to get to drains, pipes or other services. Building an access point into the skirting adds to the complexity and cost.

A simple lift-out panel is the cheapest way to do it. A framed, hinged door with a latch or lock costs more in both labour and hardware, and needs bracing so it does not sag. Choose stainless steel hinges and fixings so they do not rust. Planning at least one access point is well worth it on almost any skirting project.

10. Animal-proofing mesh

Skirting helps stop animals such as rats, foxes and, in some countries, raccoons or skunks from setting up home under the deck. Lattice or thin slats alone will not stop a determined animal from chewing or pushing through, though.

To make the space properly animal-resistant, fix a sturdy galvanised wire mesh behind the skirting. Many installers bury the bottom edge in the ground, bent outwards in an L shape, so animals cannot dig underneath; your installer can advise on the depth for your soil and the animals you are dealing with. The mesh adds modestly to materials and labour, but it is much easier to fit when the skirting goes on than later, and it can save the cost and disruption of pest control.

How to get skirting quotes you can compare

Skirting quotes are only comparable if they price the same job. Give two or three installers the same measurements and specification, and ask for an itemised quote covering:

• The area to be covered, not just the length, and how they measured it.
• The material, species or product range, thickness and finish.
• The framing behind the skirting, and whether existing posts can be used.
• Ventilation: vent panels or grilles, how many and where.
• Access doors or lift-out panels, with the hinges, latches and fixings.
• Animal mesh, and whether it is buried at the base.
• Ground preparation, such as a gravel strip or a ground-contact kickboard.
• Staining, sealing or painting, and whether it is included.
• Removal of old skirting and waste, and making good afterwards.

If one quote is much lower than the rest, check which of these items it leaves out.

Ways to keep the cost down

• Choose framed lattice or simple pressure-treated slats for the sides people rarely see, and spend more only on the side facing the house or the main view.
• Use faux stone panels rather than real stone if you want a masonry look.
• Reuse sound existing posts and framing where an installer confirms they are in good condition.
• Plan ventilation, access and mesh from the start, as adding them later costs more.
• On a very low deck, consider dense planting or a border of decorative stones instead of panels.
• If you are confident with DIY, fit simple panels yourself, and get help with stone, metal or anything on a raised deck.

Tip: Ask installers to price two options in the same quote, for example lattice on the sides and slatted boards at the front. It is the easiest way to see exactly what an upgrade adds.

FAQ

Does deck skirting increase property value?

Skirting can make a deck look finished and cared for, which may add appeal for buyers compared with an open, cluttered space underneath. Whether it adds any value depends on your local market and the condition of the deck as a whole, so think of it mainly as an investment in how your garden looks and works.

Can I use regular plywood for deck skirting?

It is not a good idea. Standard plywood is not made for exterior exposure or ground contact and can delaminate and rot quickly. For a solid look in timber, use an exterior-grade cladding sheet designed for outdoor use, or individual pressure-treated boards, and keep the bottom edge off the soil.

How do I stop my skirting from rotting?

Keep it out of direct contact with the soil. A kickboard of ground-contact-rated timber at the base, or a shallow gravel strip beneath the skirting, helps water drain away and stops moisture wicking up into the boards. Good ventilation behind the skirting helps too.

What is the cheapest deck skirting option?

Lattice, in timber or vinyl, is usually the cheapest to buy and the easiest to fit yourself. Vinyl costs a little more but needs almost no maintenance. For more style ideas at different budgets, see our guide to deck skirting ideas for small yards.

How much ventilation does deck skirting need?

There is no single figure that suits every deck. It depends on the deck's size and height, the site and the materials, so follow your local building regulations and the decking and skirting manufacturers' guidance. If you choose solid skirting, ask your installer to show where the vents will go before work starts.

Final thoughts

The cost of deck skirting comes down to the material, the area you need to cover and how much labour the design takes, plus the practical extras of ventilation, access and mesh. An itemised quote based on measured area is the clearest way to see where your money goes. Before you choose, avoid the common deck skirting mistakes, browse deck skirting ideas for small yards and, if you are still planning the deck itself, read our guide to wood deck cost. You can also explore our balcony and terrace decoration service, or book a consultation to plan your outdoor space with a designer.