Brick Edging: Pros, Cons, and Who It's Right for

Edging is the frame of a garden: the line between lawn and border that keeps soil, mulch and grass where they belong and makes the whole space look looked after. Of all the materials you can use, from plastic coil and steel strip to natural stone, brick is one of the most enduring. It has a long history in garden walls, paths and kerbs, and it sits comfortably beside most house styles.

Choosing brick is not only about looks, though. It takes more labour than most edging, it has its own maintenance quirks, and not every brick is suitable for the ground. This guide sets out the strengths and weaknesses of brick specifically, so you can decide whether it is right for your garden. If you are still comparing brick with other materials, our overview of landscape edging pros and cons covers the wider field.

The pros of brick edging

Durability

Good-quality clay bricks are fired to cope with rain, sun and changing temperatures. Unlike plastic, they do not go brittle in sunlight, and unlike timber, they do not rot where they sit against damp soil. How long a brick edge lasts depends on the bricks, the base, your soil and climate, and how it is looked after, but a well-laid edge in suitable bricks is generally one of the longer-lasting options.

Brick is also heavy. Once bedded properly, it is unlikely to be knocked out of line by a mower or foot traffic. And because the edge is made of small, separate units, a single cracked or chipped brick can be lifted and replaced without disturbing the rest of the run.

A classic look, in many colours

Brick gives a garden an established, crafted feel that is hard to get from anything else. It suits cottage gardens and Victorian terraces, but it also works in a modern garden if you choose a clean, even brick and a simple pattern. Traditional reds are the favourite, but bricks also come in buffs, yellows, greys, blues and near-blacks. Matching the edging to the house walls, or to an existing path, is an easy way to tie the garden to the building.

Laying patterns

The way the bricks are set changes the character of the edge as much as the colour does:

• Soldier course: bricks stood upright on end, side by side. This gives a taller, formal border and puts more brick below ground, which helps as a barrier against roots.
• Flat-laid: bricks laid flat, either lengthways along the line or across it. This gives a wider, lower edge that can sit flush with the lawn.
• On edge: bricks laid on their long, narrow side, end to end. A neat, slim line that uses fewer bricks per metre than a soldier course.
• Sawtooth or dogtooth: bricks set at an angle, usually around 45 degrees, so their corners form a row of points. In the UK this is often called dogtooth edging, and it is a traditional Victorian look for path and border edges, similar in spirit to rope-top edging tiles.

Versatility for curves and mowing strips

Because each brick is a small unit, brick follows curves well: kidney-shaped beds, circles around trees and sweeping borders are all achievable by fanning the joints slightly on the outside of the bend. A flat-laid double row set level with the lawn makes an excellent mowing strip, letting the mower wheels run along the bricks so you need far less strimming. Brick edging can also be continued into a low raised bed, a step or a path in the same brick, which gives the garden a joined-up look.

The cons of brick edging

Cost, relative to other edging

Brick generally sits in the middle to upper part of the range. It usually costs noticeably more than plastic coil or thin metal strip, but it can be less than natural stone or a professionally poured concrete edge. A soldier course uses roughly twice as many bricks per metre as a single row laid lengthways, so the pattern you choose affects the materials bill. Reclaimed bricks can be a good-value option, provided they are the right kind (see the FAQ below).

Labour

This is the biggest drawback. Brick edging needs a trench, a compacted base, careful levelling and each brick set individually. That is a weekend or more of physical work for a DIYer, and if you hire someone, labour is likely to be a large part of the job. It is not a quick fix for a tired border.

Weeds in the joints

Every joint is a potential home for weeds and grass. On a dry-laid edge, seeds land in the jointing sand and germinate, and ants can dig the sand out. Tight joints and a good jointing material help a great deal. Polymeric sand, which contains binders that firm up once wetted, is a popular choice; follow the instructions on the bag closely, including the dry weather it needs before and after laying. Even so, expect to pull the odd weed.

Brick is also not a complete barrier against spreading grasses such as couch grass, whose runners can creep through or under the joints. A soldier course, which goes deeper into the ground, and well-filled joints give better resistance than a single shallow row.

Settling and frost heave

Bricks laid straight onto soil, or onto a poorly compacted base, tend to sink, tilt or rise with the freezing and thawing of wet ground. Over a few seasons that turns a crisp line into a wavy one. A free-draining, well-compacted base prevents most of this, and lifting a sunken brick, adding a little sand and resetting it is a normal part of looking after a brick edge.

Frost damage to unsuitable bricks

Not every brick belongs in the ground. Soft or interior bricks absorb water, and when that water freezes the faces can flake or crumble, a problem known as spalling. Use bricks sold as suitable for paving or for ground contact in your climate, and avoid soft, low-fired bricks for edging.

Dry-laid vs mortared brick edging

There are two main ways to lay a brick edge:

• Dry-laid: bricks bedded on compacted crushed stone and sand, with sand-filled joints and usually a restraint behind them. It is the most DIY-friendly method, it copes with slight ground movement, and individual bricks are easy to lift and reset.
• Mortared (wet-laid): bricks bedded on mortar, often on a concrete footing, with mortar joints. The result is rigid and very resistant to weeds in the joints, but it takes more skill, cracked joints need repointing, and the edge is much harder to change if you reshape the border later.

A common middle way is to lay the bricks dry but haunch the outer side with a sloping bead of concrete to stop them creeping. Whichever method you choose, the trench depth is the base, plus the bedding sand, plus the brick, minus however much brick you want to show above the soil. The base is commonly around 50–75 mm (2–3 in) of compacted crushed stone with about 25 mm (1 in) of sand, and deeper on clay or where people walk on the edge. For the full process, from marking out to filling the joints, follow our step-by-step guide to how to build paver edging, which works the same way for clay paving bricks.

Tip: Before you commit to a pattern, dry-lay a metre of it on the lawn with a few loose bricks and look at it from the house. Upright soldiers, flat bricks and dogtooth points read very differently at a distance, and the bricks are easy to rearrange at this stage.

Who brick edging is right for

Brick edging suits you if:

• You see your borders as a long-term feature and are happy with the layout you have.
• You like traditional, cottage or formal garden styles, or want the edging to match a brick house, wall or path.
• You want a flush mowing strip that cuts down on strimming.
• You are willing to put in the work, or pay for it, to lay a proper base.

It is probably not the right choice if:

• You want a quick, low-effort, low-budget project for an afternoon.
• You prefer an almost invisible, minimal line; thin steel edging does that better.
• You expect to reshape or enlarge your borders soon, especially if you were planning a mortared edge.

Brick is a visible part of the garden's structure rather than a hidden barrier. Laid well, it adds a crafted, settled look that will keep giving your lawn and borders a crisp outline.

FAQ

Does brick edging stop grass spreading into borders?

It helps a great deal, but it is not foolproof. Spreading grasses such as couch grass can push runners through or under the joints. A soldier course goes deeper into the ground, and tight joints filled with polymeric or jointing sand give better resistance than a shallow single row.

Will the colour of brick edging fade?

Clay bricks are fired, and their colour runs through the brick, so it generally holds well, although surfaces can weather, gather moss or pick up dirt. Concrete blocks made to look like brick may fade over time, particularly in strong sun.

Can I use reclaimed bricks for edging?

Yes, and they add instant character, but check they are suitable for ground contact and frost. In the UK, look for bricks rated frost resistant (F2); in the US, look for the SW (severe weathering) grade. Avoid old interior or soft bricks, which can absorb water and crumble when it freezes. If you do not know where reclaimed bricks came from, ask the supplier or test a few in a less visible spot first.

How deep should the trench be for brick edging?

Add the base (commonly around 50–75 mm, or 2–3 in, of compacted crushed stone), about 25 mm (1 in) of bedding sand and the height of the brick as laid, then subtract how much brick you want showing. A soldier course needs a noticeably deeper trench than a flat-laid edge.

How do I stop the bricks shifting?

Start with a well-compacted, free-draining base, keep the joints tight and fit an edge restraint or a concrete haunch along the outer side. Backfill firmly against the bricks so they have support on both sides.

Final thoughts

Brick edging asks for more effort up front than most borders, but it repays it with a classic, durable line that suits a wide range of gardens. If you have decided on brick, follow our step-by-step guide to how to build paver edging; if you are still weighing it against metal, timber or stone, read landscape edging pros and cons and our general guide to how to build landscape edging. For help planning a garden or terrace where the edges, paths and planting work together, explore our balcony and terrace decoration service or book a consultation.