Paver Edging: Pros, Cons, and Who It's Right for

When homeowners or contractors start a hard landscaping project, the attention usually goes on the main material: the pavers themselves. Whether it is the earthy tones of clay brick, the clean lines of concrete slabs or the character of natural stone, the surface gets all the glory. Yet the component that decides whether a paved surface stays tight and level is one you barely see once the job is finished: the paver edging.

This guide is about edge restraints, the structural perimeter that holds a block-paved patio, path or driveway in place. In the UK this is usually called a block paving edge restraint, and it may be a plastic or metal strip, a line of kerb edging or a sloping bead of concrete known as haunching. Without one, foot traffic, vehicle weight and freeze-thaw cycles push the outer blocks outwards, the joints open up and the surface starts to fail. If you are looking for a decorative border between lawn and planting instead, read our guide to landscape edging pros and cons. Here we compare the main types of restraint, the benefits and drawbacks of each, and who each one suits.

1. Plastic

Plastic edging is one of the most common choices for residential projects. It is usually L-shaped and made from high-density polyethylene (HDPE) or recycled plastic. Its main appeal is versatility: many products have a notched spine that can be snipped so the strip flexes around the tight curves of a garden path, yet it also runs straight along a modern patio or driveway.

Installation is relatively straightforward. The edging is set tight against the outer row of pavers and fixed into the compacted sub-base with steel or plastic spikes, at the spacing the edging manufacturer gives, closer on curves and driveways. Plastic is usually the cheapest option and does not rot or corrode, but it lacks the rigidity of metal or concrete. In areas with hard frosts, poorly installed plastic edging can creep upwards over time and become visible.

2. Aluminium

If you want a professional-grade restraint with a low profile, aluminium is a strong choice. It is light, which makes it easy to carry and install, yet it is strong for its weight. Unlike plastic, it will not turn brittle and crack with big temperature swings, and it does not rust.

Aluminium is often preferred for contemporary designs because it gives an almost invisible transition between the paving and the surrounding garden. It is rigid enough to hold dead-straight lines over long runs, yet can be bent into smooth curves. The main drawback is cost: aluminium is noticeably more expensive than plastic. For projects where a long-lasting, crisp edge is the priority, many people find the extra cost worthwhile.

3. Concrete haunching

Concrete haunching is the traditional way to secure block paving in the UK. Instead of a prefabricated strip, a concrete mix is laid along the outside of the paving, against the edge blocks or kerb edging, and shaped into a slope that falls away from the paving. The haunch is then hidden below a layer of topsoil and turf or planting.

The benefit is mass and permanence. Once cured, a properly laid haunch gives a very solid barrier that pavers struggle to push through, which makes it a good choice for heavily used areas such as driveways. The downside is that concrete is rigid and does not flex with the ground: if the base settles or the ground moves, the haunching can crack. It is also labour-intensive, needing mixing, placing and shaping, which adds time to the project.

4. Steel

Steel edging is the heavyweight of the restraint world and is often used in commercial settings and busy public spaces. It comes in several finishes, including galvanised steel, which resists rust, and weathering steel, which forms a stable, rust-coloured surface layer that many designers use as a decorative feature. Keep weathering steel away from pale paving you do not want stained, as run-off can mark it while the surface layer forms.

Steel is thin yet strong, which allows very clean, sharp lines that are hard to achieve with thicker materials. It is well suited to restraining heavy pavers and to edges that wheels may run over. However, it is the hardest material to cut and install, needing suitable tools and protective equipment, and it is usually the most expensive option.

5. Brick

Using bricks or pavers themselves as the edging is a classic look. The two common arrangements are a soldier course, where the bricks stand upright on their ends side by side, and a row of bricks laid flat, end to end, along the edge. To make these decorative borders work as restraints, they are usually bedded on concrete or mortar and haunched behind.

This method gives a cohesive, finished look because the edging can match or complement the main paving. It is durable and has a traditional, crafted feel. The drawback is the complexity of installation: getting the heights consistent while working with a mortar bed takes skill, and over time mortar joints can crack and need repointing. For more on brick borders specifically, see our guide to brick edging pros and cons.

The pros of paver edging

• Structural stability. This is the main advantage. Without a restraint, the outer blocks gradually drift into the lawn or borders, the jointing sand washes out, and the gaps widen. Wide gaps become trip hazards and give weeds a foothold.
• A clean finish. Edging defines the space and gives a clear boundary between hard and soft landscaping. It also makes lawn care easier, giving the mower and strimmer a firm line to follow without chipping the pavers.
• Protecting the paving you have paid for. A paved patio or driveway is a significant project, and the edging is usually a small part of the total. Getting it right helps the surface stay level and good-looking for much longer than it would without a restraint.

The cons of paver edging

• Installation effort. Edging must sit on the same compacted sub-base as the paving, so you need to dig down to that level. Edging simply laid on topsoil will fail. That adds labour and time.
• It can become visible. In cold winters, frost heave can push edging upwards. If the spikes are too short or too far apart, or the base drains poorly, plastic or metal edging can end up poking above the grass in spring, which looks untidy and can catch a mower blade.
• Cost. Plastic is inexpensive, but aluminium and steel add noticeably to the materials bill on a large project, and concrete haunching adds labour.

Who is it right for?

The perfectionist homeowner

If you value clean lines and want your patio to keep its crisp shape for as long as possible, good-quality aluminium or steel edging is the right choice.

The DIY enthusiast

For a small garden path or a paved area around a fire pit, plastic edging is the best fit. It is forgiving, easy to cut with a hacksaw and needs no masonry skills.

The high-traffic property owner

If you are laying a driveway or a path that will take heavy barrows, mowers or vehicles, choose concrete haunching, kerb edging bedded and haunched in concrete, or heavy-duty steel. These resist the sideways shove that happens when heavy wheels turn on block paving. Your installer will specify what suits your ground and use.

The budget-conscious builder

On a tight budget, do not skip the edging altogether. Choose a good-quality plastic restraint instead. An affordable plastic edge is far better than no edge at all, which usually leads to the paving spreading and failing.

Tip: Where paving meets a house wall, a sound concrete retaining wall or an existing kerb, that structure can act as the restraint on that side, so you only need edging along the open sides.

FAQ

Do I really need edging for my paver project?

Yes. Unless the paving is laid against a permanent structure such as a house wall or a concrete retaining wall, it will eventually shift and spread without a restraint. Edging is what keeps the blocks locked together.

Can I install edging after the pavers are laid?

Yes. Strip edging is usually fitted once the pavers are laid, set tight against them before the joints are filled with sand. It must sit on the same compacted sub-base as the pavers, not on topsoil. Concrete kerbs or edge blocks are different: they are usually set first, and the paving is laid up to them.

How many spikes do I need for plastic or metal edging?

Use the spikes supplied or recommended for the product, at the spacing the edging manufacturer gives, closer on curves and driveways. Check the instructions for spike length too, as it needs to reach well into the compacted sub-base.

Will the edging be visible once the project is finished?

Ideally not. Most edging systems are designed to be low profile. Once the job is complete, you backfill against the edging with topsoil, mulch or turf, so only the paving and the surrounding garden are on show.

Can I use wood as paver edging?

Pressure-treated timber can be used, but it is generally discouraged as a paver restraint. Wood eventually rots, even when treated, and it does not follow curves easily. It also moves with moisture differently from stone and concrete, which can open gaps over time.

Final thoughts

Paver edging is the quiet guardian of a paved surface. It is not the most glamorous part of an outdoor project, but it is one of the most important: whether you choose the flexibility of plastic, the sleekness of aluminium or the solidity of concrete haunching, the right restraint keeps your patio, path or driveway safe, tidy and level. For step-by-step instructions, read how to build paver edging, and if you are planning a larger block-paving job, see how to build a paver driveway. For help designing a garden or terrace where paving, edges and planting work together, explore our balcony and terrace decoration service or book a consultation.